1 



The Quest of tKe 

Long Staple 

Cotton 





Textile Department 

The Merchants National Bank 

28 State Street 
Boston 



i 



The Quest of the 

Long Staple 

Cotton 

W. IRVING BULLARD 

Manager Textile Department 




THE MERCHANTS NATIONAL BANK 

28 STATE STREET, BOSTON 






Copyright, 1917, by 
The Merchants National Bank 



f ransferMB MQl 



THE UNIVERSITY PBEBS, 
CAMBBIDGG, MASS. 



fiY-Ao/o9 



<'0 



^ THE QUEST OF THE LONG STAPLE COTTON 

"^ r I ^HE " golden fleece " of the textile Industry of today 
-■■ is long staple cotton. The search for it runs 
through all the world's cotton fields and markets. Prob- 
lems seemingly impossible of immediate solution con- 
front the cotton manufacturer, the cotton merchant, 
and the cotton grower at every angle. The persistent 
progress of insect pests, that destroy the cotton boU 
during its early growth, and shortage of labor, are two 
great problems of the cotton planter; the European 
war, the embargo on Egyptian cotton shipments and 
general transportation "difficulties, are the problems of 
the cotton merchant. The unprecedented high prices 
of Egyptian and Sea Island cotton and all the indi- 
vidual difficulties of the planter, shipper, and merchant, 
are combined in one huge problem for the manufacturer. 
The uses of Egyptian and Sea Island long staple 
cottons have expanded entirely out of proportion to the 
production, so that it is a generally recognized fact that 
either the acreage planted must be greatly increased, or 
substitutes must be used. Factors contributing to the 
increased uses of these staples are the manufacture of 
automobile tire and top fabrics, the changing styles in 
dress fabrics, the substitution of mercerized yarns for 
silk, and the constantly expanding market for threads 

3 



. and yarns for insulating purposes made largely from 
the long staple Sea Island and Egyptian cottons. 

The leading American cotton merchants have had ex- 
perts investigating North and South American cotton- 
growing countries to determine, if possible, the sources 
of further supplies of high grade long staple cottons 
similar to the Sea Island and Egyptian. In another 
chapter will be found an analysis of the growth of Sea 
Island and Egyptian cottons in Brazil and Peru. In 
July, 1917, 100,000 pounds of Peruvian-Egyptian cot- 
ton was brought into this country to be placed among 
ten different yarn mills for experimental purposes. 
While results of these tests are not known as yet, it is 
generally conceded that Peruvian-Egyptian cotton will 
be found as satisfactory for tire fabric yarns as the 
genuine Egyptian of the Mitafifi and Nubari types. 

A field of great promise, now being developed under 
the skilful guidance of our government, is Arizona. 
The Salt River Valley, which is not far from the famous 
Roosevelt Dam, is being scientifically planted under 
forced irrigation and a splendid crop is expected this 
year from the 45,000 acres under cultivation. 

In the following chapters a brief resume of long staple 
cotton growing is given. The facts have been secured 
from the most authoritative sources and, in many cases, 
are results of original investigations. It is hoped this 
article may be of general interest and promote further 
study of this most timely subject. 



4 



EGYPTIAN COTTON 

THE modern history of cotton in Egypt dates from 
1820. Jumel, a French-Swiss engineer, discovered 
a cotton plant growing in the flower garden of Mako 
Bey in Cairo. Recognizing its commercial value he suc- 
ceeded in interesting Mohammed Aly, the Sultan, and 
with his help soon showed that cultivation on a large 
scale was a commercial success. The results were so en- 
couraging that further experiments were made with for- 
eign seed, principally Sea Island and Brazilian. With 
this as a start the present annual type, known as Egyp- 
tian, was developed. This cotton has marked charac- 
teristics of length and strength of fibre, silky texture 
and brown color, which have given it a very high com- 
mercial use and value. 

Egypt, being practically a rainless country, is de- 
pendent on the River Nile for its water supply. Egypt's 
total area is over 350,000 square miles, forming a square 
in the northeast corner of the map of Africa. Of this 
only one-thirtieth part, or 12,026 square miles, can be 
cultivated, the remainder being a desert. Cultivation is 
limited to the small region along the banks of the Nile 
to which water can be carried. The river annually over- 
flows its banks, and deposits a rich layer of silt and 
mud over the cotton-growing lands, thus making them 
fertile. 

In no part of Egypt is It possible to grow cotton 

5 



without irrigation, so the country is therefore depend- 
ent upon the Nile for the success of its crops. Within 
recent years a vast amount of money has been spent in 
perfecting an irrigation system through a series of dams 
and canals, by which a continuous supply of water is 
available the year round. Since the completion of the 
Assuan Dam, in 1902, the scarcity of water has ceased 
to exist with the exception of the abnormal year of 1913, 
when the flood conditions of the Nile fell far below all 
previous records ; but fortunately the newly constructed 
dam partially filled the wants of the planters. Had this 
shortage occurred before 1902 such conditions would 
have meant starvation to perhaps half the country. 

The general methods of cotton cultivation in Egypt, 
though primitive, are suitable and satisfactory, upon 
comparison of results, and cultivation is highly inten- 
sive. Most of the holdings are small and one or two 
acres will provide support for a man and his family. , 

The average yield per acre is over 450 pounds of lint- 
cotton, which is the largest amount produced per acre 
in the world. The quality is inferior to none except the 
Sea Island cotton and there is good reason to believe 
that the new types being grown in the reclaimed dis- 
tricts in the north will compare favorably with the long 
staple Sea Island. 

There are seven well-known types of Egyptian cot- 
ton, which are as follows : 

1, Ashmune, or Upper Egyptian, is probably the 
original brown Egyptian cotton and is the poorest in 
quality, — weaker, more irregular, and dirtier than the 

6 



other varieties. The length of the staple varies between 
1^ to 1^/4 inches and is sometimes less. It is grown al- 
most entirely in northern Egypt, where no other variety 
has proved successful, and is used mostly for the cheaper 
grades of yarn. The market for this grade is England, 
India, Japan, and the United States. 

2. Afifi, or Mitafifi, is another recent variety and still 
forms the bulk of the Egyptian crop. The fibre is very 
strong and regular, about 11/4 full to 1% inches in 
length. The price of a good cotton of this type is the 
basic price of the Egyptian market in Liverpool. It is 
now cultivated in Lower Egypt and the Nile Delta and 
is sold to all the textile markets of the world. 

3. Assili, or Assil-Afifi, was introduced about 1910, 
and is an attempt to recover an old variety that is fast 
disappearing. The fibre is strong with a staple of lyg 
inches, but up to the present time it has not been grown 
in large quantities. 

4. Nubari is another recent variety, selected about 
1905, and is similar in character to the Afifi. The staple 
is weaker, a somewhat darker brown, but of good com- 
mercial value to spinners of that grade and with a staple 
of 1% to IjQ inches. 

5. Abbassi is the whitest of all the grades of Egyp- 
tian and has been grown since the year 1893. It is 
very fine and of good length, with a staple of 1^4 inches. 

6. Jannovitch, one of the best grades of Egyptian 
cotton, was originally a chance selection from Afifi, first 
grown in 1899. The fibre is long and strong, about IY2 
inches in length, and not as brown as the Afifi. It is 

7 



used for the production of fine twist yarns, such as 
sewing cottons, where strength is essential. 

7. Sakellarides, or Sakel, is a new variety similar 
to the Jannovitch, and superior in some respects, but 
lighter brown in color. It is a competitor of the 
Georgia and Florida cotton, with about the same staple, 
and possesses many of the characteristics of Sea. Island. 
Its cultivation has increased very rapidly since its intro- 
duction in 1907, due to the fact that it grows well any- 
where in Egypt and has a heavier yield than the other 
types. In 1915 one-half of the cotton acreage was 
planted with this variety. Tire fabric yarns are manu- 
factured very largely from this type of cotton because 
of its strength and generally excellent qualities. 

Cotton growing by irrigation is done almost entirel}^ 
by hand labor, the farm implements being a primitive 
plow and hoe. Each tract is plowed three or four times, 
each plowing being at right angles to the previous one. 
Planting takes place in the north during March or 
April, since one advantage of early planting is that the 
earlier maturing cotton has a better chance of escaping 
damage by the boll worm. The use of artificial fertiliz- 
ers is not general and manure is scarce, but the silt and 
mud from the Nile are rich in fertilizer and have much 
to do with maintaining the fertility of the soil. 

The picking starts about the end of August in Upper 
Egypt and early in September in the Delta. The work 
is done mainly by boys, girls, and old people, and wages 
are from 10 cents to 25 cents per day. The picking is 
very clean and the average child picks from 30 to 50 

8 



pounds of seed cotton per day. The cotton is then col- 
lected into long bags containing about 400 pounds, two 
of which are carried by camels to the gin. The first 
picking is followed by two others, the last being as late 
as December. After December the cotton stalks nmst 
be pulled up in order not to provide winter quarters for 
the boll worm. 

The methods of ginning and baling cotton in Egypt 
are primitive and out of date when compared with Amer- 
ican methods, the main reason being that labor-saving 
appliances are not used on account of the cheap labor. 
The cotton is carried from the fields to the ginneries by 
camels, by train, or by river. The old roller gins, fed 
by hand, are used. The cotton is baled by hydraulic 
pressure, each bail weighing from 700 to 800 pounds. 
Before baling, the cotton is watered by syringes and 
shaken. This process is also used in certain parts of 
India, where a hose is turned on the bales as they stand 
in the yards. Bales are then shipped to Alexandria, 
sampled, and sold for export. Subsequently they are 
reopened, examined, and watered again, and repressed 
to a density of about 35 pounds. New hoops and can- 
vas are added, making an addition of 20 pounds. The 
final result is a bale which is a model to the entire world. 

The cotton worm, boll worm, and, since 1912, the 
pink boll worm, are the most important cotton pests. 
In 1883 a government commission was appointed which, 
by educational efforts, tried to show the growers the 
best means of overcoming the pests. These efforts, how- 
ever, had little effect, and in 1904 the loss on account of 

9 



ravages of the cotton worm was estimated at over $10,- 
000,000. The Government, since 1905, has inaugurated 
a campaign against the cotton worm and been success- 
ful in decreasing the ravages of this pest. The au- 
thorities, however, have not found it possible to deal as 
effectually with the boll worm, and Have reached the same 
decision as the United States Department of Agricul- 
ture, — that it is necessary to keep house with the pest. 
The only effective remedy is to pick off the whole of the 
bolls attacked, but this is difficult not only from a labor 
standpoint, but because of the impossibility of distin- 
guishing the infested bolls with any certainty. 

The pink boll worm was first reported in Egypt in 
1910, but since 1912 has increased rapidly. This pest, 
after eating out the contents of the boll, remains inside 
the seed and even passes unharmed through the ginning 
process, so that it is carried over to the next year in the 
seeds reserved for that sowing, in that way causing 
increasing damage to succeeding crops. It is also diffi- 
cult to handle for the same reasons as the boll worm. 

The future of Egyptian cotton rests upon the success- 
ful suppression of the insect pests, the extension of the 
proposed irrigation systems, the possibility of reclaim- 
ing 1,000,000 acres, and the improvement of the average 
yield as a result of better drainage, all of which will 
tend to increase the production. The supply of Egyp- 
tian cotton has never equalled the demand, and increased 
acreage will greatly contribute to the world's needs. 



10 



SEA ISLAND COTTON 

SEA ISLAND COTTON has been successfully culti- 
vated in two areas, the southern portion of the 
Atlantic States (South Carolina, Georgia, and Florida) 
and the West Indies. Columbus discovered cotton grow- 
ing in Barbados on his first landing and from there 
it was undoubtedly carried by the Europeans to the 
American colonies. Practically all of the cotton used 
in England during the eighteenth century came from 
the West Indies. In the nineteenth century production 
died out entirely and it was not revived until the early 
years of the twentieth century. The first of this cotton 
which was shipped to Europe was packed in boxes simi- 
lar to our orange boxes of today, but soon afterwards 
was shipped in bags or bales. 

The Sea Island cotton is a long stapled, black seed 
cotton and seems to be affected by sea air. While it 
has been known to grow a hundred miles inland it does 
not thrive to any great extent except near the coast. 
The staple from Georgia and Florida averages about 
1% to 1% inches. The total crop is relatively small 
and is seldom over 100,000 bales of about 400 pounds 
each. The production fluctuates greatly. A record 
crop in 1911 of 122,866 bales was followed by a crop 
of 68,163 bales in 1912. 

The extraordinarily speculative character of the 

11 



market and the extreme fluctuations in price have 
caused general dissatisfaction among the growers. Un- 
less very high prices are obtained, Sea Island cotton 
does not pay on account of the time, labor, and special 
care required and its peculiar susceptibility to damage 
by unfavorable weather. The crop failure of 1912 was 
due to the severe hurricane which devastated the Sea 
Island district and cut down the crop to almost one-half 
of normal. The appearance of a new competitor has 
still further complicated the situation. The superior 
varieties of Egyptian cotton, namely Abbassi, Janno- 
vitch, and Sakellarides, are being used by the spinners 
of Lancashire, England and America in place of the 
Sea Island with satisfactory results. 

There is a great danger for the future of the Sea 
Island cotton because of the approach of the boll weevil. 
On account of the late maturing of this cotton, culti- 
vation under boll weevil conditions appears hazardous. 
It is not possible to have an early maturing crop be- 
cause of the long time required for the staple to grow, 
and unless new means can be found to combat the ad- 
vance of the pest, serious crop curtailment may be 
expected. 

Changes in style and the enforced economy of pro- 
duction are other features that in the past have affected 
the Sea Island market. Manufacturers have reported 
the change of style of women's dress goods from soft, 
lustrous cloths, composed of fine yarns and of high 
counts per inch of both warp and filling, to coarser, 
rougher goods which means fewer threads per inch in 

12 



the woven fabric. Such changes are, of course, re- 
flected in the kind of cotton purchased, and, as might be 
expected, the cheapest quality that will answer the pur- 
pose is generally bought. The final result is a gradual 
grading down in the staple length, the shorter grades 
being used in the fine goods trade. Thus, the Sea 
Island cotton has often been sold at a sacrifice when 
compared with former prices. It must be remembered, 
however, that these conditions do not exist during the 
present war period, but are stated merely to bring forth 
the previous tendencies and to indicate what may be 
expected when the world is at peace. 

The crop requires a sandy, or a sandy loam, soil 
with a clay or a compact sand soil about a foot below 
the surface. A well regulated water supply is necessary 
for successful cultivation, and drainage is essential. In 
the interior it is possible to grow cotton only where the 
drainage is suitable, but on the other hand, a regular 
supply of water is needed if the firmer and longer staple 
is desired. 

At the present time there is a great scarcity of cheap 
labor which will restrict the acreage planted. The 
planters are trying to overcome the labor shortage by 
using labor saving devices, but there will be difficulty in 
getting the cotton picked. 

The markets for Sea Island cotton are at Charleston, 
South Carolina, Savannah, Blackshear, and Valdosta, 
Georgia, Alachua and Madison, Florida. The South 
Carolina cotton is put up in bags 71/2 feet long and 
about 21/) feet in diameter, each bag containing 300 to 

13 



400 pounds. The bags are filled by hand and the cotton 
is pressed in by a light handscrew press. Interior cat- 
ton is packed by a steam press into bales which average 
about 400 pounds each, the shape and size being similar 
to an Upland cotton bale of 54 by 27 inches. The bale 
is covered by a heavy burlap and instead of the steel 
bands is sewed together with strong cord. 

The buyers classify the cotton according to staple 
and each grade is sub-divided into classes such as, fancy, 
extra choice, choice, extra fine, fine, and " dogs." This 
classification applies only to the cotton from the coast. 
The staple coming from the islands called " Fine 
Islands " is generally given the grower's private brand, 
where he, by careful selection of seeds and methods of 
growing, has produced a fibre of unusual length and 
cleanliness. This brand is a sufficient guarantee of its 
quality and staple. 

At first Sea Island cotton was used to spin yarns for 
fine laces, but with the invention of the sewing machine 
a new field was opened, and at the present time a large 
per cent of cotton threads manufactured in this country 
are made from Sea Island cotton. It is also used in the 
manufacture of fishing lines, boot laces, the finest mer- 
cerized fabrics, electrical tape, government mail bags, 
aeroplane fabrics, sails for racing yachts, and cloth for 
bicycle and automobile tires. At first it was spun only 
in England and France, but now it is being spun all 
over New England, and even the Southern States are 
taking a share of the crop. 

The future of Sea Island cotton, after the war, de- 

14 



pends upon the success growers have in combating the 
ravages of the boll weevil and in meeting the competi- 
tion of the new Egyptian varieties grown in the Eastern 
and Western countries. 



ARIZONA-EGYPTIAN COTTON 

'' I ^HE failure of the Egyptian and Sea Island crop to 
-■- meet the demand for the long staple cotton re- 
quired in the spinning of fine yarns has led to the de- 
velopment of new fields. After extensive experiments 
and careful cultivation, the United States Department 
of Agriculture discovered that by forced irrigation 
Egyptian cotton could be raised in Arizona. At the 
close of the season of 1911 these experiments had 
reached a stage which seemed to justify the trial of this 
crop on a small scale by the farmers of Salt River 
Valley. The seed which was distributed by the Depart- 
ment of Agriculture in the spring of 1912 was a careful 
selection of Egyptian, entirely free from all contamina- 
tion or vegetable disease. The results of the first crop, 
harvested in 1912, were not satisfactory, due to various 
causes. The farmers, in some cases, were not familiar 
with the requirements of the crop ; the fields were given 
very little attention after the planting ; there was a lack 
of irrigation water for some of the farms, soil in others 
was too salty, and in one section high ground water, 
resulting from a flood of the Colorado River, caused the 

15 



crop failure. The crops of the later years met with 
much better success. 

The boll of the Egyptian cotton is three lock and 
somewhat smaller than the average boll of the short 
staple cotton grown in the Southern States. Its small 
size, with the sharp-pointed burr, causes greater diffi- 
culty in clean picking than is the case with ordinary 
Upland cotton. Since these fibres are used in the manu- 
facture of combed and mercerized yarns, in making 
goods that resemble silk, it is necessary to have the fibre 
picked free from hulls and leaf. Furthermore, the type 
of roller gin used does not clean the foreign matter from 
the seed cotton as the saw gins do, hence clean hand 
picking is necessary, at a labor cost as high as two cents 
per pound for picking. With but a few exceptions the 
cotton is now picked carefully and the seed cotton taken 
to the gins is clean and free from trash, thus making it 
possible to turn out a high grade lint. 

The cotton is sampled at the gin by a workman who 
is required to take a handful of the lint cotton ; another, 
when the seed cotton is about half ginned ; and a third, 
when the ginning is nearly complete. Samples by this 
method are secured from different parts of the bale. 
The cotton taken for samples weighs about one pound 
and provides a sufficient number of types on which sales 
can be made, thus eliminating the practice of cutting 
the bagging at sampling. The cutting of the bagging 
not only wastes as much cotton as is taken out at the 
gins for samples, but opens the way for further loss and 
damage, and also causes greater liability to fire. All 

1^ 



bales arc pressed to the density of 12 pounds to the 
cubic foot and the bale is known to the cotton trade as 
the flat or uncompressed. 

The following system of marking, branding, and 
weighing is used in order to secure accuracy and safety 
in handling. 

Tagging. As the bale comes out of the press box a 
heavy tag is attached by means of a double copper wire. 
On this tag is printed the name of the gin, location, and 
serial number. The tag carries one or more coupons 
bearing the corresponding serial number and a coupon 
is placed in the sample of the cotton. 

Marking. The bales are marked by a stencil, with 
four inch letters. The size of the letters used varies 
according to the quality of the bagging. 

Branding. The mark of the planter and the gin num- 
ber are placed on the head of each bale and are also 
branded on the sample hole side. 

Weighing. The Arizona-Egyptian cotton is sold on 
net weight or the total gross weight less the tare. This 
tare is supposed to cover the weight of the bagging and 
ties. 

Arizona cotton being a new variety, for which no 
standards for grades or staples existed, the De- 
partment of Agriculture established the following 
grades : 

Fancy. Clear and clean and of creamy color, allow- 
ing about as much leaf as Strict Good Middling and 
equivalent to Extra Fine Egyptian Sakellarides. 

Extra. Clear, creamy or of slight color, leaf allowed 

17 



equal to Good Middling, U. S. Official Standard, and 
equivalent to Fine Sakellarides Egyptian. 

Choice. Allows color after frost and is equivalent to 
Good Sakellarides Egyptian. 

Medium. Leaf equal to Strict Low Middling; U. S. 
Official Standard and equivalent to Strictly Good Fair 
Sakellarides Egyptian. 

The three staple lengths are grouped as follows : The 
longest and best staple is named Sacaton, the second, 
River, and the third, Valley. The Sacaton staple is 
equivalent in length to that of the best Sakellarides 
imported into this country, the River equals the best 
Jannovitch, and the Valley is similar in length to the 
best Mitafifi. 

By this system of classification and standardization 
the cotton buyer of a mill can request his broker or 
agent to purchase the exact grade and staple required 
to manufacture his products. 

In 1913 the members of the Southwestern Cotton 
Committee of the U. S. Department of Agriculture 
met with the members of the Arkwright Club of Bos- 
ton and by presenting samples of the various types 
called the attention of cotton dealers to the new long 
staple crop of Arizona. From then on the demands 
for Arizona-Egyptian cotton increased, and to meet 
the needs of the manufacturers, irrigation plans were 
rushed and the acreage available for planting was 
developed. 

The following table will give the results of the Egyp- 
tian plantings to date in the Salt River Valley : 

18 



Year Production in Bales 

1912 220 

1913 1500 

1914 6300 

1915 1000 

1916 4000 

1917 . Estimated 9000 

The future of the Southwest is bright and it has 
already won an enviable reputation in the cotton world. 
The rich soil, abundant sunshine, plentiful water supply, 
and a long growing season, offer unlimited opportuni- 
ties for the production of long staple cotton. 



CALIFORNIA COTTON FIELDS 

COTTON growing in California was started in 1909 
and has already become of great commercial im- 
portance. The first crop of cotton, grown in 1909, 
was preceded by numerous plant testings. In 1902 the 
Department of Agriculture at Calexico, California, 
planted several selections of Egyptian cotton seeds 
with remarkable results. The cotton grew luxuriantly 
and even reproduced itself from the old stumps for a 
number of years. The industry was definitely launched 
in 1909, and careful selections of seeds were distributed 
among the growers, who planted 450 acres. The crop 
averaged a little more than three-fourths of a bale per 
acre, the total amount being 350 bales. 

This new country is in every respect a second Nile 

19 



Valley in the extreme southwest corner of the United 
States, where the great Colorado River passes between 
Arizona and California and flows down into the Gulf of 
California. 

The soil of the Imperial Valley is composed of an 
alluvial silt which was deposited there when the valley 
was the delta of the Colorado River and the head of 
the Gulf of California. The fertility of the soil enables 
the planter to grow cotton without rotation or change. 
Each year the river, carrying a rich fertilizing silt, de- 
posits about nine tons on every acre during the season's 
irrigating. 

The suppl}' of water for irrigation is taken from the 
Colorado River and is carried by means of canals 
through the valleys and irrigated districts. 

The summers are long, thus giving a long growing 
season which is desirable for Egyptian and long staple 
cotton. 

The labor consists of a large percentage of the supe- 
rior kind of white labor, the wages ranging from $35 
to $40 per month and board. A large number of Mexi- 
cans and Japanese come into the valley at harvest time 
and with this supply there has never been a shortage 
of cotton pickers. 

The land is plowed and thrown into ridges on beds 
about four feet apart and the seed is drilled into the top 
of these beds. The water is then turned on and allowed 
to run down the rows between the ridges. Irrigation 
by this method is sufficient to cause the seed to germi- 
nate and appear above the ground in about ten days. 

20 



As the fruiting period develops, the deep-rooted plant 
is watered every two weeks throughout the fruiting 
period, which continues until the last of November. 
Owing to the richness of the soil and the abundance of 
moisture, the cotton plants are very much larger and 
more vigorous than those in the Southern States, mak- 
ing it necessary to grow them farther apart in the row. 
The plants are therefore chopped or thinned out to a 
distance of 18 to 22 inches. 

The cost of growing cotton averages $12 per 500 
pound bale on the basis of a bale per acre. To this 
must be added $15 for picking and $5 for baling, mak- 
ing a total of $32 per bale ready for shipment ; this 
showing is unequalled by any country in the world. 

In the early days of the cotton industry in the Impe- 
rial valley, there was no compresser, all the cotton 
being shipped out by gin weight only. In the later 
years compresses have been installed, and as it is cus- 
tomary in the cotton trade to accept the weights as 
given by them (there is usually a certified or public 
weigher to oversee this matter), cotton producers have 
come to accept compress weights as correct. 

California cotton varies in length of staple from lye 
to lyg inches. The fibre has considerable spirality, is 
exceptionally strong, even in length, and is quite free 
from waste when grown in rich soil which is sufficiently 
irrigated, and when carefully picked. Some of the 
longer staple cotton from this section is being used by 
worsted manufacturers as a substitute for moderate 
rough Peruvian cotton. 

21 



There were no established types or standards that 
could be used other than the Official Cotton Standards 
of the United States and this classification was adopted 
after some consideration. 

The Imperial Valley Cotton Growers' Exchange, or- 
ganized early in 1912, attempts to market the crop on 
the cooperative plan. The functions of this organiza- 
tion are to store and to market the cotton of its mem- 
bers. It also engages in all lines of activity touching 
upon the cotton industry, including ginning and the 
manufacture of oil. The expense of operating the ex- 
change is provided for by a fixed charge on each bale 
handled. Sales are made either through cotton brokers 
by consignment, or direct to manufacturers. In direct 
sales samples are submitted to users, the cotton they 
purchase being paid for by sight draft attached to the 
bill of lading. The price paid is generally based upon 
quotations for similar cotton in the ports of New 
Orleans and Galveston, less the broker's commission, 
freight to the ports, compressing and other charges, 
plus the commission or profit to the original buyer. 

The future of California offers a bright field for the 
production of high quality cotton. The extension of 
the industry depends upon future seed selection and the 
application of the best cultural methods. 



22 



COTTON FIELDS IN BRAZIL 

COTTON has been cultivated In Brazil from very 
early times, and probably was found growing there 
by the Portuguese when they first landed in that coun- 
try in 1500. In 1872 over 346,000 bales were exported, 
but during the last twenty years local cotton factories 
have been constructed and home consumption is taking 
a large part of the crop that was formerly exported, 
in 1911 there were 190 mills with a spindleage of over 
1,000,000. The Government has also taken steps to in- 
crease the manufacturing of cotton goods by imposing 
a high export and a low import cotton tax. The cotton 
that is now exported is mostly of the long staple 
varieties. 

Cotton growing is widely spread over many different 
provinces, each area offering different conditions. In 
one state alone, Sao Paulo, there are three kinds of cot- 
ton grown — Upland in the southern and western dis- 
tricts, several varieties of Egyptian in the northern and 
Sea Island in the maritime zone. 

Planting begins as early as the middle of December in 
some districts and goes on to the end of May in others, 
and, in the same manner, the picking season extends 
from July to February. There are only a few large 
plantations, most of the growers being small farmers, 
as the labor supply is not always sufficient. As a gen- 
eral rule wages are very low, and the highest rate known 

23 



to have been paid for picking is 6s. 4^. per 100 kilos of 
lint, equal to about 25 cents per 100 pounds of seed 
cotton. The day wage is about 1*. 6d., yet the cost of 
living is high. 

Two different varieties of cotton seem to be chiefly 
grown. The first is a tree cotton known as Creovlo, or 
Maranhao, which yields for two or three years and bears 
open bolls the year round. The fibre of this tree cotton 
is of very good quality, although the yield is less than 
that of the herbaceous variety, which is cultivated more 
extensively. The tree cotton is more drought resisting. 
Its bolls are large, but have a close growing habit so 
that the cotton when ripe does not protrude, thus giving 
rise to an increased cost of picking. Insect pests do not 
disturb the bolls of the tree variety. 

The second variety is the ordinary herbaceous cotton 
which is grown chiefly in the coast districts, where the 
rainfall is more reliable. The grade varies greatly in 
quality, the staple being sometimes as short as % of 
an inch, while some growths give as much as ll/2"iJich 
staple, but the average is about 1 to 1^ inch. The 
general character of the staple is good. It possesses a 
peculiarly harsh or wiry character which makes it espe- 
cially suitable for mixing with wool. It is generally 
badly handled in picking and ginning, and only saw gins 
are used. The usual weight of a bale is only about 250 
pounds, though those exported are often more. 

With the exception of Southern Brazil, very few plan- 
tations are worked with modern agricultural- implements. 
By far the greater quantity of the best Brazilian cotton 

24 



is grown on land that has never been plowed. The sys- 
tem in common practice is the same today in the in- 
terior that it was in 1580, when discovered by De Soufa. 
The brush is cut down and allowed to dry during the hot 
season. Before the rain starts a fire is run over the 
ground, and with the commencement of the rains seeds 
are planted here and there over the field, no attention 
being paid to row or alignment. Not only is cotton 
planted, but also corn and beans, and frequently still 
other crops, all mixed together in the same field. Dur- 
ing the season two or three hand hoeings are given, and, 
as the crops mature, the beans, corn, and cotton are 
harvested. 

Brazil, however, is potentially the greatest cotton- 
producing country on earth and has enormous areas 
with soil and climate that are ideal for the crop. Labor 
is plentiful in most parts and may be employed at about 
one-third the cost of farm labor in the United States. 
The quality of the cotton produced in the coast country 
equals that of the American Upland and under special 
treatment and care would equal the best Egyptian. 
Insects of the more serious character are not known to 
exist in Brazil. Furthermore, ocean transportation is 
available from Brazilian ports to the world markets. 

Against these great natural advantages there stand 
the general ignorance and the widespread indifference 
of the average farmer to modern agricultural methods. 
When this is overcome Brazil should become the fore- 
most cotton-producing nation in the world. 



25 



PERU 

THE conditions in Peru are markedly different in 
almost every respect from those in Brazil. Here 
cotton has been cultivated since the times of the Incas. 
This is testified to by the remnants of cotton cloth, in 
exquisite colors, which were wrapped around the mum- 
mies. It was not, however, until 1899 that cotton was 
produced to any great extent and by systematic culti- 
vation. The following table shows the production for 
the ten years : 

Year Production in 500-pound Bale 

1905 42,000 

1906 46,000 

1907 54,000 

1908 70,000 

1909 95,000 

1910 62,000 

1911 69,000 

1912 84,000 

1913 data unavailable 

1914 100,000 

1915 90,000 

Peruvian cotton is grown entirely under irrigation, as 
the climate is practically rainless except in the North, 
where torrential rains sometimes fall in summer; and 
only the lack of funds to carry out further irrigation 
work prevents the development of cotton growing on a 
more extensive scale than at present. 

26 



Peru owes its advantages for cotton growing to the 
exceptional physical and climatic characteristics of the 
country. Its coast line extends about 1200 miles from 
3° south of the Equator to 22°. It consists chiefly of 
arid sand hills, but these are intersected by numerous 
valleys varying in length from 25 to 100 miles, running 
from the Andes to the sea, and each is the bed of a river 
which has filled it with a deep, alluvial soil. During the 
hottest summer months, which comprise the cotton- 
growing season, the volume of these rivers is augmented 
by the melting of the snow in the mountains, and as the 
slope of the valley is, as a rule, fairly steep, irrigation is 
a comparatively simple matter, and every part of the 
valley can be conveniently watered. 

The following kinds of cotton are cultivated in 
Peru : 

Egipto, introduced into Peru from North America, 
where it is known as Upland cotton. It is generally of 
a more reduced size than other varieties, showing a cer- 
tain ligneous development, and attains, under favorable 
conditions, the height of two metres. Its stem is more 
pliant and soft in the early stages of its growth. As a 
rule the life of the plant is two years, but when culti- 
vated under favorable conditions may extend to four or 
five. The seed, after being separated from the fibre, 
is relatively large. 

Gossypium peruvianum Cav. is found in the warmest 
regions of the coast. The plant will live more than 
twenty years and tlie fibre is very rough and long, which 
permits it to be employed in imitation of woolen cloth. 

27 



The seed, which is small, is separated perfectly by the 
ginning machine and is smooth and black. 

Gossypium harhadense L., as found on Peruvian plan- 
tations, is also ligneous, and the fibres are very long, 
fine, and silky. The seed is also smooth and black. 
From this variety are derived the sub-varieties of " Sea 
Island," "Mitafifi," and " Jannovitch." Sea Island 
cotton is also cultivated in very insignificant quantities 
in the valleys of Supe, Huarmey, and Huache, in the 
departments of Lima and Anachs. 

Nearly all the known varieties of cotton may be cul- 
tivated on the Peruvian coast. The absence of rain and 
hail insures the safety of the crops and gives the planter 
a liberty of action unknown to those who must contend 
with more inclement climates. The temperature varies 
very little during the twenty-four hours, or from one 
season to another. Plagues attacking Peruvian cotton 
are very few and are mild in form. The most danger- 
ous insect is the arrebiatado. In recent years the 
boll weevil has been found in Peru, but steps have 
been taken to study means to combat and destroy this 
plague. The fertilizer most used by cotton planters 
is the guano, easily obtained from the islands off the 
coast. 

The next crop, corresponding to the year 1916-lT, 
should show a notable increase in the production of 
" Mitafifi " cotton, for, owing to the high price at which 
this cotton is selling, many planters are devoting their 
attention entirely to it. 

Planting time is from the middle of October to Decem- 

28 



ber. In March the plants begin to flower and the crops 
are gathered from May to July, harvesting continuing 
often in many valleys until September. 

The increasing value of the coast lands of Peru is 
due in a large measure to the cultivation of cotton, and 
this is an important factor in favor of this crop. If the 
demand for long staple cotton of the best grades con- 
tinues and the competition of the Egyptian is not keen, 
cotton will become an important feature of the agricul- 
tural life of Peru. 



29 



CONCLUSION 

THIS brochure would be incomplete without referring 
to the valuable results accomplished by the many 
cotton manufacturers in New England and elsewhere 
who, cooperating with cotton growers and merchants, 
have made scientific tests during the various processes 
of the manufacture of these newer types of long staple 
cotton. Particularly should credit be given to the spin- 
ners of combed tire yarns and builders of machinery for 
the manufacture of tire fabric and cord, for in this newer 
department of the textile industry there has been more 
real scientific research and evolution than in any other 
field of textile experiment. 

The enormous consumption of long staple cottons for 
automobile tire fabric and cord and mechanical cloths 
undoubtedly accounts for the shortage of these grades, 
and it appears quite safe to venture the opinion that 
there must be either a substantial increase in the acre- 
age of long staple cotton during the next few years or 
substitutes such as peeler cotton will have to be used by 
the textile industry. 

Many of the smaller automobile tire manufacturing 
companies have used combed peeler cotton this season 
with satisfactory results, — particularly in unguaran- 
teed tires, — but the larger companies have adhered 
strictly to the use of combed Sea Island and Egyptian 
cotton of the longer staple, with the result that today 

SO 



the guarantee of the leading brands of tires is of little 
or no value as the service mileage almost invariably 
exceeds the guarantee by a liberal margin. 

One of the leading rubber companies recently organ- 
ized a subsidiary for the purpose of reclaiming and 
planting more than 10,000 acres of the arid lands of 
the Salt River Valley in Arizona with long staple Egyp- 
tian cotton seed. Of the 9000 bales of long staple 
Egyptian-Arizona cotton to be picked this fall, a large 
part of this crop will be from cotton plantations re- 
claimed this spring and irrigated from the Roosevelt 
Dam. 

An economic reward is sure to follow the efforts of 
cotton growers and merchants to extend the acreage of 
long staple cotton, and of cotton manufacturers and 
textile machinery builders to change the processes of 
textile manufacture so that cotton of shorter staple 
than the better grades of Egyptian and Sea Island can 
be spun into yarn and woven into fabric that will be as 
strong in the breaking and wearing tests as contempo- 
rary fabrics made from the long staple cottons. 



31 




LONG STAP 
COTTON FIE 



DOMINION OF 



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future date. 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 




The Textile Department 

of The Merchants National Bank of Boston 
has been established to furnish to the textile and 
alUed industries reliable statistics and reports 
of important developments; to investigate new 
fields; to initiate original research work, and to 
collate and make available pertinent data regard- 
ing the textile industry. 

Special expert attention is given to each of the 
three divisions, — materials, machinery, and mar- 
kets; to the cotton crop, to mill equipment, and 
to the finished goods trade. Conditions, prices, 
costs, supplies, demand, deliveries, and prospects 
general and local will be surveyed. 

This is a service of co-operation for our clients, 
covering the needs of every branch of textile 
activity. Domestic and foreign trade opportuni- 
ties are investigated and presented in the form of 
detailed reports covering the ocean freight rates, 
insurance, methods of packing and shipping, cus- 
toms duties, export and import taxes, methods 
of financing, and in addition, reliable credit 
information. 

Data on idle mill sites, water powers and factory 
buildings, labor conditions in different localities, 
and schedules of wages of operatives in the vari- 
ous textile centers will be available. 

The Merchants National Bank 
of Boston 

28 State Street, Boston, Mass. 



